A.R.E. Caps - Look here for all info!

[davecoon13]

There was a thread somewhere on the NASIOC Baja forum that says the back window is structural to the Baja's frame. It could affect crashworthiness if you remove it.

[davecoon13]

I was thinking of adding a Rear Defroster to the ARE cap. If I add the kit, I will make sure to put a quick disconnect in case I need to remove the cap temporarily.

Here is the website that has the kits: http://www.frostfighter.com/faqcv.htm

The deal is, that the ARE glass measures roughly 10" high inside and roughly 31.5" at the top and 35" at the bottom. The minimum for the Rear Defroster kit is 40" wide, however, the website says that a Mazda Miata Hardtop back glass has roughly the same dimensions (actually it is narrower, but similar in height):

I have a Miata Hardtop without a rear glass defroster. Can I use a Clear View Kit?
Yes! But it takes a little doing. The 2609 Clear View Kit is the one to consider. The grids are spaced 1.25in apart on the kit for 13in total height. The Miata has about a 10x29in rear window so at first blush the 2609 is to tall and does not meet the 40in minimum. Many owners have cut the heating element paper and side bus bars to allow closer spacing. The shorter length will make the grid run a little hotter and this is not a recommended application. It is critical that no heating elements be removed and that the bus bar layout be maintained as per the directions.

I am wondering if it is worth a try, for $50 I could have a rear defroster. I would be interested from those who live further north of here what they think.

--Dave Coon

[davecoon13]

Before forking over $50, I figured I would email them to see what they said... and here is their response:

from Frost Fighter Information <info1@frostfighter.com>
date Mon, Feb 21, 2011 at 2:23 PM
subject Re: From Frost Fighter Web

hide details 2:23 PM (1 hour ago)

David,

Thank you for your question.

The Clear View kits are not adaptable to the size glass you indicate. We are in the process of finalizing additional sizes and will have these on our website as soon as they are available although I do not have an ETA for the kits.

Sorry not to have better news.

John
Customer Care
http://www.frostfighter.com

Oh well, it was worth a shot. Another design is to have a blower which blows hot air across the glass. I don't think that would work as good. Any thoughts?

[Takaaco]

has anyone rigged up some sort of quick release for their ARE cap?

[sfeather11]

I've rigged up a quick release with a speaker terminal for the 3rd brake light, but not for the cap itself. I did however replace the 4 torx head bolts with a 10mm hex head. Not sure you could get much quicker than that...

Peace!

[Takaaco]

Yea I have the plug for the rear light. im trying to find some bolts with wingnut heads on them for the rear two bolts, and maybe a few rubber bungees for the rear bolt holes down to the cargo tie down loops in the front. so I dont have to use the 2x4 cargo strap method for the front bolts.

[canuck37]

Yea I have the plug for the rear light. im trying to find some bolts with wingnut heads on them for the rear two bolts, and maybe a few rubber bungees for the rear bolt holes down to the cargo tie down loops in the front. so I dont have to use the 2x4 cargo strap method for the front bolts.

Just a word from one who has learned the hard way...if you don't secure the lid really well and there is any slippage at all, especially around the rim where the cap snugs up against the car roof, the friction will wear the paint off the car in short order! Taking a bit more time to secure it properly as opposed to a quick release option might be worth the extra time taken. Just sayin'.....

[sfeather11]

Unfortunately no matter how loose or tight the fit, the paint is going to rub away anywhere there is hard contact between fiberglass and clearcoat. I used the 2x4 method the first few times I removed/installed the cap and still have the rub marks. The prolonged flexing and vibration of the body from normal driving (however minimal), is enough for the fiberglass to act like sandpaper. I finally said screw the 2x4 installation and opened up the front holes a little bit with a dremel to allow easy installation. Very easy to remove and install now!

Thats an awesome idea of using "wing-nut" bolts. I know I've seen something like that before (like the bolt that holds the jack in place in the compartment behind the seat). Hey, maybe someone should try that exact bolt, eh? Will look in the fastener section next time I'm at Lowes...

Edit: I think they're called "thumb screws"...

Peace!

[Takaaco]

I dont even like the cap, but its my wifes truck and she does, so... And I got a deal on it I could not pass up off Craigslist.

[Takaaco]

found this place has M6x1.0 bolts with thumbscrew heads.

http://mdmetric.com/shearloc/m6thumbscrew.htm

[sfeather11]

Sweet! We're psychic! That's EXACTLY the same screw/website I looked up the other day! I tried to call them to get pricing, but they are on the west coast and weren't open yet. Unfortunately I forgot about it later in the day and never got around to it. However I did take my screw out and verify the m6x1.00 thread at Lowe's the other day. so it should work. The only concern I have is the length of the screw. If I recall the longest that site had was 25mm, hopefully that will be long enough to reach through and engage the threads...

Good work! Peace!

[Takaaco]

you can these in 30mm (1.18 inches)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005RTFA36/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

[sfeather11]

So I purchased the 25mm screws that mdmetric carries (actually had to go thru McMaster-Carr to get a pack of 10) and they are way too short. the tip of the screw doesn't even hit the sheet metal, let alone engage any threads. I also emailed the vendor of the 30mm screw you found on Amazon and confirmed that the thread length is 30mm, not the overall length, but I'm thinking that even the extra 5mm would still be too short to get any engagement. I just measured the bolts that hold my cap on and they are 40mm thread length... Oh well, Maybe someday...

Peace!

[sfeather11]

Success! It turns out the plastic screw knobs are simply press fit onto a stainless cap screw. I popped them off the 25mm screws I bought that were too short, ordered new 40mm M6 cap screws from McMaster-Carr and Presto! I was able to press fit the new longer screws into the knob. I installed the new thumbscrews in the Baja last night and they work perfectly (and look pretty sweet too). I can now remove/install my ARE cap quickly and without tools! Now, if only I could lift/move the damn thing by myself...

Takaaco, I'm sending you a pm. I had to buy a pack of 10 screws from McMaster, and obviously only need 4 to hold the cap on, so I have 6 extra

For anyone else who is interested in ordering, the part #s I ordered from McMaster-Carr are:

Plastic Thumb Screw Head = 911075A071
http://www.mcmaster.com/#plastic-thumb-screws/=nac6mi

M6 x 1.00 Stainless Cap screw (you need the 40mm length) = 92290A336
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/3096/=nacbsd

Peace!

[Takaaco]

pulled of my top the other day, looks like I have a little rubbing issue.